Catching the Wave
Living in a land locked state doesn’t help much with surfing skills. So when I head to fiji each year to try a new watersport and get coached by the best in the world I have to put my brave face on, with my “yes, let’s do it” mentality and just do whatever coach says! This year at our favorite island in the world I had my second and third week of surfing coaching and progressed so much.
I’ve learned many things these last two weeks that are applicable to not just surfing but also life.
1) Progress is sometimes backwards
My first day I tackled a bigger wave than last year which was a left wave break and works better with my goofy-foot stance (right foot in front). I didn’t surf this wave at all last year because its typically bigger and more intimidating. This year we started on the Left breaking wave, called “Namotu Lefts”. The first day I went out On a large soft board on a smaller wave day and I nailed it! I got up nearly every time my coach pushed me in and I was frothing!
The next day we tried another soft foam board but a little shorter and skinnier. I wobbled and fell off most waves which was quite frustrating and dug into my confidence I found the day before.
At lunch close to the end of the first week I sat with Ben wilson, kitesurfing legend and manager of Namotu Island, and he reminded me that a good surf day might only be 1-2 waves caught. And often many beginner surfers don’t even stand up on a board for their first year! So, instead of focusing on days I didn’t catch as many waves, it’s still a huge accomplishment and I am grateful I am in such a beautiful place in the world lounging in the ocean trying something cool.
2) try different things
After trying a few soft boards boards to understand the feeling, I found that a hard top long board was just right for me. I stuck with it my entire second week but I continued to go between two different wave types (right vs. left breaking). I started to have longer rides that allowed me to work on my form and relax my stance instead of striking a yogi warrior 2 pose from previous weeks. I also was able to move my feet to shift weight during a ride so It was finally clicking!
3) Froth and have fun!
At the end of this year’s 2 weeks on Namotu, I am proud of myself! I surfed every day and for the first time with my son! I shared the best waves in the world with incredible humans and the best surfers in the world! I am so blessed to have the opportunity to be a part of such a beautiful place on earth where I expanded my abilities to catch waves, grew my confidence and now froth for more future waves!
